THE PROJECT
This project is a collection of 35 repeating patterns dedicated to discovering Bulgaria and building a better understanding of its culture in a playful and compelling way. The generated imagery is based on a survey that collected qualitative information received by 129 Bulgarian participants. They were asked to fill in a questionnaire and highlight the most prominent features that represent Bulgaria. The two significant objectives were to find answers of the following questions:
1. What are those things that Bulgarians connect and identify their country with?
2. What is the future version of Bulgaria through their perspective?
The answers were later analysed and classified in 4 big categories:
// Nature, Places, Sightseeings & Monuments
// Food & Drinks
// Objects, Unique Features & Traditions
// National Characteristics, People & Inventions, Periods & Tendencies
For each category there is an overview of the received answers, a title and a short explanation of the pattern and the symbols selected for it. In addition, there is an overview of the most common answers received in this category. Some of the patterns merge subjects from other categories. For example: Buzludja Monument is a symbol of Communism period in Bulgaria.
The patterns can find applications in different ways. Interior design: wallpaper, curtains, posters. Fabrics: T-shirts, scarfs, hats, skirts. All kinds of merchandise or be laser cutted on different surfaces or 3D printed. The possibilities are endless.
THE CONCEPT
One of the biggest inspirations for the pattern formations was Bulgarian embroidery. The style is monochromatic with the intention to keep the objects simplified, unified and reduced of the unnecessary visual noise. Adobe Illustrator program helped with the creation of a special set of 30 digital stitch textures which were used to fill in the objects. They are a digital version of the traditional embroidery stitches. Depending on their type, they colour the shapes in a lighter or darker tone. Line art was the preferred method for shaping the objects and all of them were created with the Pen tool. In addition, line art reminds of the outline stitch used widely in embroidery art. Many of the patterns are seamless, some used linear symmetry, others - planar symmetry. The final two patterns were influenced by Escher type repeats.
PATTERN MAKING EXPLORATION
NATURE AND PLACES
SIGHTSEEINGS AND MONUMENTS
Bulgaria has diverse and mesmerizing nature: lowlands, mountain ranges, sea, lakes, mineral water springs (second in Europe), rivers, valleys and fields, wild forests. This offers the opportunity for active tourism in the winter and summer resorts and many of the participants named at least one of them.
Very popular answers were some of the biggest cities in Bulgaria - Sofia, Plovdiv, Varna, Veliko Turnovo, Stara Zagora. Some answers that weren’t turned into patterns were: Aleksandar Nevski cathedral and Varna Cathedral; Rila Monestry and Bachkovo Monestry; caves - Devil’s throat, Yаgodinska, The eyes of God cave; regions - Irakli, Balchik, Svishtov, Smolyan, Koprivshtica; Kardzhali Dam. Very interesting response was - an old tree at the beach in Kranevo.
Below are the answers turned into patterns.
FOOD AND DRINKS
Bulgaria has delicious cuisine, authentic and ecologically clean food. Among the given answers were: tarator (cold cucumber soup), lyutenitsa (a vegetable spread), patatnik (potato dish typical for the Rhodope Mountains), moussaka (a potato-based dish with ground meat), mekitsa (fried dough food), tripe chorba (traditional soup widely considered to be a hangover remedy), Smilyan beans, patatos, shopska salad, mixed colourful salt (шарена сол), feta cheese and etc.
Below are the answers turned into patterns.
OBJECTS, UNIQUE FEATURES AND TRADITIONS
It was a hard process to select which answers to be created into patterns. Bulgaria has a rich variety of unique features that should make Bulgarians proud with the heritage their ancestors left them. Varna golden treasure is the oldest golden treasure, about 6,000 years old. Bulgaria hasn’t changed its name since its foundation in 681, which makes it one of the oldest countries in Europe. The Mystery of Bulgarian voices. Bulgarian flag has never been captured by enemy in a battle. Salvation of the Bulgarian jews during the Holocaust (1939-1945).
Below are the answers turned into patterns.
NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS / PEOPLE AN INVENTIONS / PERIODS AND TENDENCIES
The responses in this category were very diverse and gave a lot of food for thought.
The national characteristics were divided into two main groups - positive and negative. Among the negative features were: envy, greed, stupidity, illiteracy, arrogance, snobbery, negligence, servitude, vulgarity, limited worldview, bad mentality, moral decay, lies, betrayal, robbery, negativity and complaining people. However, positive features prevailed. Among them were: warm-hearted people, hospitality, kindness, faith, hope, love, patience, innate intelligence, joy, happiness, passionate people, strength, fighting spirit, endurance, bravery, hardworking, modesty, selfishness, self-sacrifice, spirituality, flexibility, adaptiveness.
The subcategory of people and inventions was very interesting. What Bulgarians gave to the world? And why should we be proud to call ourselves Bulgarians? Among the most prominent names were: musicians and singers - Vasko Vasilev (violin), Raina Kabaivanska (opera singer), Valya Balkanska (folklore singer); novelists - Ivan Vazov, Elin Pelin, Dimcho Debelyanov; sportsmen - Grigor Dimitrov (tennis player), Stefka Kostadinova (high jump athlete), The Golden girls (Златните момичета) National rhythmic gymnastics team, Hristo Stoichkov and Dimitar Berbatov (football players), Dan Kolov (wrestler); philosopher Petar Dunov; actor Djoko Rorsich; inventors - Ivan Nochev (engines of the Moon Lander “Eagle”, part of Apollo 11 space station); John Atanasov (first computer); Petar Petrov (first electronic wristwatch); Yul Brown (water engine).
Even though Bulgaria is one of the poorest and most corrupted nations in Europe, with depopulated villages and overpopulated capital, better future can be built by innovative and creative people.
Below are the answers turned into patterns.
BULGARIAN EMBROIDERY
- the main inspiration behind this project -
Embroidery is one of the most distinctive features of Bulgarian folklore and is regarded as one of the greatest treasures in Bulgarian cultural heritage (Bulgarian embroidery patterns can be traced back to at least 3500 years, the Bronze age of Thrace), a proof of the rich spirituality of Bulgarian ancestors and their pursuit for beauty. Apart from its decorative purpose to ornament folk costumes, it has protective, curative/healing, identification and communication functions.
The symbols and motifs used in the pattern encode information and tell fascinating stories if they are interpreted correctly. The embroidered motifs are geometric, plant/floral, rarely animal, there are also skillfully ornamented human figures, tools, vessels, etc. The most commonly used symbols are: kanatica, mother goddess giving birth, tree of life, rhombus, elbetica, swastika, roosters.
The leading characteristic of the Bulgarian embroidery varies considerably from region to region due to its geographical diversity with mountains and valleys, highlands and lowlands. Designs are imparted as much by certain obvious differences in pattern and stitches employed as by the choice of colouring.
The most used stitches by the Bulgarian embroideress are cross, stroke, straight, slanting slav, square, plaited, star. The simplest execution and design is in Vidin, Vratza and Grahovo. Sofia is distinguished by the use of geometrical patterns in rich and vibrant colours. The finest embroideries are obtained from Doupnitza. In general, Bulgarians show a pronounced taste for polychromatic decoration. Red and red-browns predominate, one of the rarest colours is golden.
Bulgarian embroideress was following strict symmetry rules for the composition of the patterns. She was well acquainted with linear, reflectional and rotational 90° symmetry. Predominantly motifs were symmetrically arranged but sometimes asymmetrical compositions can be seen.
SYMBOLISM BEHIND COLOURS & MOTIFS
There is a huge amount of symbolism cross stitched to Bulgarian embroidery. It is an incredible interpretation of life from conception to death. Dimitar Marinov, the founder of the National Ethnographic Museum, noted: “In these patterns joy or sorrow are expressed, these patterns show what is being asked for: fertility, strength, prosperity, life, health, fun, love. They are prayers written with symbolic signs.”
Each color used in Bulgarian embroidery has a particular meaning attached to it. White is associated with purity, innocence, truth, wisdom and knowledge. Yellow represents the Sun and the light, God and the holy. Red represents the blood and life, masculine power and courage. It protects from the bad spirits and spells. Therefore it was a common practice until 1920 for the bride to wear a red veil on her wedding day. Green is the expression of eternal life and connects with the Tree of life, nature, youth, and health. And blue - the sky, water, truth, calmness and contemplation.
Kanatica is the symbol of the family, eternal life and infinity. Associated with the union between male and female, it gives strength, harmony and balance. Depending on how many triangles are added, the meaning of the symbol changes (engagement, wedding, family, kinship, nation).
Mother goddess giving birth is associated with fertility and is represented in an abstract way. In complicated compositions the symbol always stays in the middle.
Tree of life presents the idea of the connection between material and spiritual world. The composition can be symmetric or asymmetric. It stands for a three-level vertical representation of our world. The crown symbolises the Upper World or the Heavens, the trunk embodies the Earth and the roots stand for the Underworld, the home of demonic forces.
The roosters is associated with fertility and life expectancy. It is usually cross-stitched on women’s skirts and sometimes in their armpits.
The geometric figure rhombus is the symbol of feminine fertility and is one of the most important parts of Bulgarian apron.
Elbetica is easily recognizable by the two crosses placed on top of each other. It generally symbolises harmony. The two crosses represent the four main and the four additional directions of the world, uniting in a common centre that keeps them in together. It can be interpreted as the four seasons as well. It is depicted on the sleeves and collars of the clothes, as well as at the bottom of the women’s skirts. These are the finishing places of the clothes and it was believed that the person was most vulnerable there.
Swastika is associated with the cult of the Slavic god of the sun and the fire of Svaroh. For thousands of years this symbol represented people’s hopes for prosperity, success and good luck. After it was adopted by the Nazi Party to symbolise German nationalist pride, this symbol has negative connotations attached to it.
I’m motif comes from the Thracian historical and geographical area. It is commonly used in the region of Samokov. The Self is the dominant symbol, stating “I’m”, “I am responsible.” Associations can be made with the first letter of the Glagolitic script, the oldest known Slavic alphabet. “I” - A, which itself encodes the message for all human beings and knowledge.
Below are my creations of some of the most famous Bulgarian embroidery symbols.
MOCK UPS
- possible visual solutions -